After squeezing all that we possibly could from Padova, we were ready for a vacation from our vacation. Firenze is a straight shot south on the Frecciargento with Bologna in between, so Cinzia lined up 3 nights in Firenze followed by 2 more in Bologna for us after much back and forth with the various hosts via Airbnb and VRBO. We spent 2 months in Firenze in 2011 and 2 months in Bologna in 2014, so we knew the cities well. It would be like going home in a way.
We arrived into Firenze Santa Maria Novella train station around 1:35pm and made our way to the center of town to our rental by 2pm. We would be located between Piazza Signoria, which is home to the Palazzo Vecchio, and Piazza di Santa Croce. After checking in we headed straight to Salumeria Verdi (a.k.a. Pino's Sandwich Shop). Pino is still there greeting customers with a smile and making sandwiches. He recognized us after 7 years – even commenting that my beard was different. We ordered his “Springtime” panino – a combination of prosciutto, mozzarella, and tomato on focaccia and then toasted under the sandwich press. After finishing our tasty sandwiches at one of his outdoor tables, we made the short walk over to La Carraia 2, one of our favorite gelaterias. It looks like they expanded their tiny shop by connecting it to an adjacent shop. They now offer more flavors, but my favorite, Schiacciata alla Fiorentina con Crema di Limone was not among them. Oh well, I’ll make do with Cocco & Amarena while Cinzia chose Lampone & Fondente.
We spent the rest of the afternoon strolling through the piazza, looking at the wonderful sculptures, and looking through the famous leather shops – lots of leather shops. We had hoped to find Crayola at her leather stall in Piazza del Mercato Nuovo, which is better known as the piazza with the bronze Porcellino fountain. I had bought my Gianni Conti bag from her 7 years ago. We found her stall – it’s the only one that carries Gianni Conti – but no Crayola. We were told that she left the company only last year and moved away with her boyfriend. We’d soon find that we were remembering the people, or characters, of Firenze just as much if not more than its places or food. We you’ll see in my blogs of Firenze and Bologna, it’s all about the people we’ve met in previous trips and the people we’ll meet now.
As it started to grow darker, we needed to pick a place for dinner. Cinzia spotted a small osteria called Dell’Osso. We took a table inside. This was a really tiny place which served typical Tuscan food. There were 2 servers, a cook, dishwasher, and head chef. As their name might suggest, they offered Bistecca alla Fiorentina in a variety of cuts and ages – all displayed in their butcher case. Prices started at €47/kg. The steaks were cut to order and started at 1 kilo. Huge portions grilled to somewhere between raw and rare, sliced on a wooden cutting board and served with lemon wedges and a bottle of olive oil. We tried Bistecca alla Fiorentina 7 years ago – not our cup of tea, especially since the U.S. has far better beef. Instead, after an antipasto of something delicious I can’t even remember six days later as I’m writing this blog, I ordered the Osso Bucco and Cinzia went with Pappardelle al Ragu di Cinghiale. Oh wait, we took a picture of the menu. Cinzia’s antipasto was the Souffle di Carciofi su Crema di Pecorino al Tortufo and I went with the Crostone Toscano. Not sure what these are but they sound delicious? Read the menu in the picture below. Two British women sat at the table behind me and ordered the Bistecca alla Fiorentina. In the open kitchen we watched as the cook removed the entire primal from the butcher case and hacked off a huge steak. The chef then weighed the steak before the server presented it to the ladies on a wooden board for their approval prior to grilling. I think it was 1.3 kilos, so just over $70.00. Once the cook finished grilling their steak, the chef sliced it and arranged the pieces on the wooden serving board. You could tell that he really enjoyed this part of his job as he decorated the board with fresh arugula and lemon wedges for presentation. The server placed the bistecca on the table for the ladies, but moments later he was called over and asked if it could be cooked more. Begrudgingly, he returned with it to the kitchen and informed the chef who cringed (probably not his first time). He had the cook throw the slices back onto the grill until the beautiful steak was dead. Cinzia caught his eye and commiserated with him. He smiled and shook his head. Later, our server confirmed that the ladies wanted it cooked more and it broke the chef’s heart. He said it was a big compromise for the chef to even agree to carry ketchup and mayonnaise. Our meals were fantastic, and the show that the kitchen put on for us made the entire evening all that much more enjoyable. When we finished and the server came for our plates, I asked him to tell the chef that the Osso Bucco might be better if he added mayonnaise. The server said he might be stabbed if he did, but he told the chef anyway who laughed and nodded our way. Cinzia really enjoyed the atmosphere and the staff at Dell’Osso. We even took pictures of the staff when we left. I’m certain that we’ll return one day for another fine meal.
We walked through Piazza Del Duomo where the basilica, bell tower, and baptistery were illuminated so that their green, white, and pink marble exteriors glowed against the night sky. Then on to Piazza Signoria to see two wonderful sculptures: “The Rape of the Sabine Women” and “Perseus with the Head of Medusa”. It’s still amazing to me that these original masterpieces are on public display outside. The large fountain of Neptune was being restored, but you can still see his imposing figure rising above the barriers.
Of course our night would not be complete without another gelato. This time we headed to Cinzia’s favorite place – Gelateri dei Neri. It also moved locations into a larger space. I went with Cremino Ricotta e Pistacchio & Ricotta e Fichi. Luckily it was 9:30pm so the lines were not too long. Italians do love their gelato at any time of day and every month of the year. We’ll have to check Gelateria Perché no! tomorrow to see if Sergio still works there. Remember Sergio?
We walked through Piazza Del Duomo where the basilica, bell tower, and baptistery were illuminated so that their green, white, and pink marble exteriors glowed against the night sky. Then on to Piazza Signoria to see two wonderful sculptures: “The Rape of the Sabine Women” and “Perseus with the Head of Medusa”. It’s still amazing to me that these original masterpieces are on public display outside. The large fountain of Neptune was being restored, but you can still see his imposing figure rising above the barriers.
Of course our night would not be complete without another gelato. This time we headed to Cinzia’s favorite place – Gelateri dei Neri. It also moved locations into a larger space. I went with Cremino Ricotta e Pistacchio & Ricotta e Fichi. Luckily it was 9:30pm so the lines were not too long. Italians do love their gelato at any time of day and every month of the year. We’ll have to check Gelateria Perché no! tomorrow to see if Sergio still works there. Remember Sergio?