Palazzo della Ragione is the enormous rectangular medieval town hall that dominates the center of Padova. Built in 1218, this structure’s upper floor, with its great frescoed hall, is now a museum. The lower level houses dozens of grocers, butchers, bakers, florists, cheese shops, and a fish market. The palazzo has two interior halls with shops on either side as well as more stalls along the exterior of the building. The building is flanked by Piazza delle Erbe (square of herbs) on one side, and Piazza dei Frutti (square of fruits) on the other. These enormous twin piazze are home to open-air markets every day of the week. Vendors set up their stalls, all covered by umbrellas or tarps to shield their fruits and vegetables, as well as their customers, from the sun.
A ticket to see the upper floor is only €4, but there is a touring art show housed there this month, so the price is €10. We were disappointed as the odd art show took away from the grandeur of the salon that measures approximately 265’ x 85’ with an 85’ ceiling. Usually, the only 2 items in the salon are the giant wooden horse, built in 1466, and the Pietra del Viruperio (Stone of Shame). The horse was constructed for a public tournament and was adorned with a red saddle upon which sat a giant statue. It was wheeled through the town by a team of oxen. In 1837 owner donated it to the city where it was reassembled in the salon.
The Pietra del Viruperio has a more colorful story. According to the museum guide: “It was placed therein 1231 at Saint Anthony’s request and used to punish insolvent debtors. According to 1261 statutes, insolvent debtors, wearing only their underwear, had to sit on the stone for three times, before no less than 100 persons, uttering the words “Cedo bonis” (“I renounce all my worldly goods”). They were then banished from the city, and if they returned and were caught, they had to go through the same process again, but this time buckets of water were poured on their heads.” Even today, to indicate a person who has fallen into disrepair, it is said that "he has remained in his underwear".
How was Saint Anthony involved? In Padova during the middle ages, those who could not pay their debts were “condemned without appeal to perpetual prison or to the stretch of rope”. In 1231, three months before his death, then Friar Antonio presented himself before the Council, asking that the penalties for the debtors, so harsh, be replaced. On March 15 of that year the Council of Padua ordered that, on account of the venerable Friar Antonio, no debtor be imprisoned and the Stone of Shame was introduced.
Aside from these two oddities, the beauty of the salon are its frescoed walls with depictions of the 12 astrological signs, guilds of the times, and various religious and mythological figures. The modern “art” show looked like it could have been created by high school art students. What a mess – and for 6 additional euros a piece! That money could have been better spent on some cured meats or wonderful cheese from the vendors on the palazzo’s ground floor. Oh well.
The Pietra del Viruperio has a more colorful story. According to the museum guide: “It was placed therein 1231 at Saint Anthony’s request and used to punish insolvent debtors. According to 1261 statutes, insolvent debtors, wearing only their underwear, had to sit on the stone for three times, before no less than 100 persons, uttering the words “Cedo bonis” (“I renounce all my worldly goods”). They were then banished from the city, and if they returned and were caught, they had to go through the same process again, but this time buckets of water were poured on their heads.” Even today, to indicate a person who has fallen into disrepair, it is said that "he has remained in his underwear".
How was Saint Anthony involved? In Padova during the middle ages, those who could not pay their debts were “condemned without appeal to perpetual prison or to the stretch of rope”. In 1231, three months before his death, then Friar Antonio presented himself before the Council, asking that the penalties for the debtors, so harsh, be replaced. On March 15 of that year the Council of Padua ordered that, on account of the venerable Friar Antonio, no debtor be imprisoned and the Stone of Shame was introduced.
Aside from these two oddities, the beauty of the salon are its frescoed walls with depictions of the 12 astrological signs, guilds of the times, and various religious and mythological figures. The modern “art” show looked like it could have been created by high school art students. What a mess – and for 6 additional euros a piece! That money could have been better spent on some cured meats or wonderful cheese from the vendors on the palazzo’s ground floor. Oh well.