It’s a cool morning, about 65 degrees, so we decided to head out early (for us that means before 10am) and wander the city. We headed towards the Duomo and then turned right, heading away from the tourist areas. Florence is known as “The City of the Arts” and their best known goods are gold, leather, paper, and fashion. We take our time window shopping and looking at the impressive architecture. There is so much beautiful architecture all around you in Italy that you oftentimes overlook it as it blends into the everyday scenery. We also check out several small eateries along the shaded streets – sandwich shops, bakeries, bars, and sweet shops. Cinzia started her morning with a café latte at the bar on the corner of our block, but we’re now deep into local streets that are off our maps.
We stop to read the menu at Pangie's Bistrot. They offer a number of sandwiches but don’t open until 11:30am, so we head onward. Cinzia spots a ceramic shop. Their display items look more like an art exhibition that a store. This one is called Giotti and features Italian hand-painted ceramics. The owner stops to chat with us and show off his pieces. There are several small BBQ grills with hand-painted ceramic surrounds, a large 2 meter table with matching benches and chairs, and the usual assortment of plates, pitchers, and bowls. Everything is lovely. He tells us that since they make all of their pieces it’s possible to get anything made with any design we’d like – custom items are no problem. I had tried to ship home a pizza dish in 1997, but it was the only item in the lot that cracked, so I ask if he’s got any pizza dishes. He says he can make any diameter we’d like with any hand-painted design or inscription we’d like. It would take 7 weeks to produce. I ask Cinzia what she would pay for one hand-painted Italian ceramic pizza dish and she says she’s willing to go as high as $40-$50. When I inquire about the price, including shipping, I’m told €140,00 for the pair. At today’s exchange rate that’s $192.15. We take a pamphlet and tell him we’ll think about it.
It’s well past 11:30am now so we double back to Pangie's and get a table for two. It’s a small place and before we leave it’s filled and people have been turned away. Cinzia orders the house panino with a half bottle of Chianti and I get the prosciutto and pecorino panino with artichoke spread and a Coke. The owner is a round Italian man who clearly loves his work. His wife handles the salads and pasta orders while his daughter takes the orders and delivers the food to the tables. He stands behind his deli case and cuts the meats for each panino to order. Really wonderful selection. The porchetta panino looks great too as do some of the other more interesting salumi in the case. Cinzia has a café and I order a slice of Schiacciata con l’uva for dessert. We’ve seen Schiacciata con l’uva several times throughout Umbria and Tuscany. It looks like a flat, square blueberry tart, but it’s really a grape cake. The grapes turn the top of the dessert purple and the seeds are crunchy. Not something I’d order again, but it was interesting. After paying our bill (€20,50) we head back on our walk.
The next piazza has as its centerpiece a bronze statue of Hercules and the Nemean Lion. We snapped this photo for Bill.
It’s well past 11:30am now so we double back to Pangie's and get a table for two. It’s a small place and before we leave it’s filled and people have been turned away. Cinzia orders the house panino with a half bottle of Chianti and I get the prosciutto and pecorino panino with artichoke spread and a Coke. The owner is a round Italian man who clearly loves his work. His wife handles the salads and pasta orders while his daughter takes the orders and delivers the food to the tables. He stands behind his deli case and cuts the meats for each panino to order. Really wonderful selection. The porchetta panino looks great too as do some of the other more interesting salumi in the case. Cinzia has a café and I order a slice of Schiacciata con l’uva for dessert. We’ve seen Schiacciata con l’uva several times throughout Umbria and Tuscany. It looks like a flat, square blueberry tart, but it’s really a grape cake. The grapes turn the top of the dessert purple and the seeds are crunchy. Not something I’d order again, but it was interesting. After paying our bill (€20,50) we head back on our walk.
The next piazza has as its centerpiece a bronze statue of Hercules and the Nemean Lion. We snapped this photo for Bill.
Across the piazza was the church that Amerigo Vespucci attended. He grew up in Florence where he worked for Lorenzo de' Medici (also known as Lorenzo the Magnificent) and his son, Giovanni, before heading to Spain in 1492. His observation during expeditions to The New World eventually led to America being named after him.
On the façade of the church you can see the shield of Florence and detailed carvings above the door of the Madonna. Again, here’s a good example of one of those buildings you’d miss if you weren’t taking notice.
Next to the building is another structure with a colored shield of the Medici. Their shields are all over Florence. They were the wealthy and powerful banking family who were patrons of the arts during the Renaissance. They were even able to have several Medici rise to the papacy. You must read The House of Medici: Its Rise and Fall by Christopher Hibbert before your next trip to Florence.
It’s now time for something sweet. Should it be gelato or pastries? With gelato stores on most every corner in the tourist areas we decided to try one of the local pasterias. The shop has a beautiful display of colorful and tempting treats. How can you pick just one? We decide not to decide and just get a plate of six and a Diet Coke for €5,30. The sampler includes nuttela, raspberry, lemon, and pistachio pastries among others.
All delicious. But now we’re stuffed, so we make our way back to our apartment, stopping at clothes and shoe stores along the way. Cinzia tries on several tops and settles on a nice blue one. Maybe she’ll wear it for dinner tonight at Cuco Cucina. Dinner will be our first of 7 GroupOns while in Italy. We’re looking forward to the experience.
Finally back in the apartment it’s 4pm and Cinzia decides to turn on the air conditioner in the bedroom and take a little nap. It’s now 5pm and she’s up. Time for me to post this blog and relax a bit. More later.
Finally back in the apartment it’s 4pm and Cinzia decides to turn on the air conditioner in the bedroom and take a little nap. It’s now 5pm and she’s up. Time for me to post this blog and relax a bit. More later.