The people of Torre Orsina are wonderful. Many know us by name. Their daily routine is one that we easily fell in step with. At 9.00 the bar opens for business and people meander in for a caffé. Without fail someone will ask us if they can buy us a caffé or cappuccino, or in my case, a Diet Coke. Fabiana may also make a cappuccino Genovese. This is a cappuccino made in one of the small caffé cups. It costs less that your standard cappuccino and the name reflects the stereotype that those from Genoa are cheap – having arms much too short to reach down into their pockets. Conversation seems to begin with the weather. Will it be freddo or caldo today? We will also be asked if we slept well the previous night.
The bar will stay open until 13.00 when is closes until 16.00 for pranzo. People don’t spend all 3 hours eating, but they do eat prepare large, multi-course meals and follow them up with a short reposo, or rest.
At 16.00 the bar opens once again and stays opened until 24.00 – longer during the festa. People usually stop in for another caffé. A group of men will arrive to play biliadro, pool cues in hand, or a game of Briscola around one of the card tables. If the weather is nice a table will be moved outside for the afternoon’s game. I’ve joined them upstairs at the biliardo table a time or two, but they are all much more skilled at the game than I. At 20.00, after an aperitivo, everyone heads back home for cena and returns to the bar between 21.00 and 21.30 for a digestivo, caffé, or Orzo, game of cards, or gelato. Groups of four women will form to play their favorite game, burraco. The last games will end just in time for closing.
Tomorrow it all starts again.
At 16.00 the bar opens once again and stays opened until 24.00 – longer during the festa. People usually stop in for another caffé. A group of men will arrive to play biliadro, pool cues in hand, or a game of Briscola around one of the card tables. If the weather is nice a table will be moved outside for the afternoon’s game. I’ve joined them upstairs at the biliardo table a time or two, but they are all much more skilled at the game than I. At 20.00, after an aperitivo, everyone heads back home for cena and returns to the bar between 21.00 and 21.30 for a digestivo, caffé, or Orzo, game of cards, or gelato. Groups of four women will form to play their favorite game, burraco. The last games will end just in time for closing.
Tomorrow it all starts again.