On our third evening in Torre Orsina they held a Briscola tournament in the piazza outside the bar. The bar is at one end of the main street and the church is at the other, each with their own piazza. The crowds occupy the piazza outside the church for the early festa activities, such as singing, dancing, reenactments, the palio, and processions. After these activities conclude everyone moves to the smaller piazza outside the bar for drinks, gelato, conversation, and to play cards until 1am.
Briscole is played with an Italian deck of cards (40 cards equally divided between 4 suites: coins, swords, cups, and batons). These are numbered 1 through 7 with 3 face cards (8 through 10). I have several decks of Italian cards (each with different regional graphics: Trentine, Siciliane, and Napoletane) and have played Briscola only a few times in the past. We prefer playing Scopa to Briscola. No matter, as registration for the tournament had closed. We cheered on Lucia and her father (Briscola is played with two 2-player teams). We met Lucia Marchegiani earlier. She’s a student and speaks English well.
As the tournament got underway the bar owner brought out a card table and chairs so Maria Giulia and her friends could play Burraco. Burraco is played with 2 decks of standard American playing cards, including both jokers, (called Jollies) and is also played with two 2-players teams. I watched as the ladies played a game. It seemed simple enough, though I didn't quite understand all of the scoring (the game is played to 2,005 points). Everyone gets 11 cards and an additional 11 card hand is played once a player plays all their cards. Deuces are wild and a set or run containing 7 cards is called a Burraco.
Maria Giulia was looking for another player after one of the ladies departed, so I volunteered to sit in. My partner spoke a word or two of English, so when I had a question I had a good chance I’d get an answer. Maria Giulia asked if I knew how to play Burraco. I said no, but I’m a quick study. I noticed that no one could riffle the cards during their shuffle. I riffled both decks and everyone, I mean everyone, looked on in surprise. The ladies wanted to know how to shuffle like this as well as the men. The kids never looked away when I shuffled like it was magic. For a town crazy about this game I was a little surprised no one knew how to shuffle cards. On my first turn to play I was able to play all 11 cards. Maria Giulia look surprised, so I reminded her I was a professional card player. We won the first game easily. Maria Giulia wanted a rematch. On the first hand we made so many points they conceded. From then on everyone wanted me as their partner. I only lost once all week. During many matches I had to correct the players on the rules or strategy – 7 time in one game as I recall. At the end of the week I asked someone how is it that everyone loves this game but doesn't seem to know how to play. He said a foreigner taught someone the game 2 months ago and it just spread, so they were all relatively new to Burraco.
Maria Giulia was looking for another player after one of the ladies departed, so I volunteered to sit in. My partner spoke a word or two of English, so when I had a question I had a good chance I’d get an answer. Maria Giulia asked if I knew how to play Burraco. I said no, but I’m a quick study. I noticed that no one could riffle the cards during their shuffle. I riffled both decks and everyone, I mean everyone, looked on in surprise. The ladies wanted to know how to shuffle like this as well as the men. The kids never looked away when I shuffled like it was magic. For a town crazy about this game I was a little surprised no one knew how to shuffle cards. On my first turn to play I was able to play all 11 cards. Maria Giulia look surprised, so I reminded her I was a professional card player. We won the first game easily. Maria Giulia wanted a rematch. On the first hand we made so many points they conceded. From then on everyone wanted me as their partner. I only lost once all week. During many matches I had to correct the players on the rules or strategy – 7 time in one game as I recall. At the end of the week I asked someone how is it that everyone loves this game but doesn't seem to know how to play. He said a foreigner taught someone the game 2 months ago and it just spread, so they were all relatively new to Burraco.
I also read an announcement posted in the bar for a biliardo (billiards) tournament. I didn’t see any pool table in the bar, but later in the week I watch as a fat man brought his cue into the bar and went through a small door in the back room. The tight spiral staircase led to a second floor which was occupied by a single table and a few chairs. I had my doubts that it would be pool, a.k.a. pocket billiards, but thought it might be billiards played on a larger table without pockets using three balls, 1 red and 2 white. This wasn’t the case either. The table was large and without pockets, but was played with three balls, one white, one yellow, and one red. But in the center of the table was 9 small bowling pins, no more than ¾ of an inch tall, arranged in a cross. These were also white, yellow, and red.
I watched the two men play a game to 400 points using an electronic score board. For the life of me I could not figure out the scoring. I surmised that one opponent was white and the other yellow. They took turns hitting their ball into their opponent’s ball while trying to knock over the pins with their opponent’s ball. Later in the week one of the younger guys who spoke English explained the scoring. The outer white pins were worth 2 points, inner yellow pins 8 points, and the center red pin was 10 points. If you hit your ball into a rail prior to striking your opponent’s ball then all points were doubled. Knocking over just the red pin was worth 30 rather than 10. Hitting the red ball was worth 6 points. If your ball knocked over any pins or struck the red ball your opponent received 2 points on top on any points you scored. So, a good player banked most of their shots for double points and left their opponent with no clear shot at their ball by leaving it on the opposite side of the cross. I could tell by the speed and confidence of the fat man that he was very good. He asked if I’d like to play but knew he’d have to spot me 350 points if I were to have a shot. I later found out that he was the best player in Torre Orsina.
On the day of the tournament I watched the first 2 players. Michele explained the scoring again. Into the game I asked if both players were bad. He said yes, in fact one was a beginner. I thought I could beat both these guys. I asked if I could enter the tournament, but registration was closed. It took two days to complete, and the fat man walked away with the title. He beat his grandson who took second place.
As I began to know the bar crowd they asked me about poker and on one of my last nights in Torre Orsina asked if I could teach them. They watched the WSOP and WPT on television, knew many of the players names (one asked if I played with Johnny Chan) and knew the rules of Texas Hold’em. After the evening’s festivities I taught the bar owner, Maurizio, and Michele. At one point I’d dealt out a board and ask them to tell me what the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd nuts would be. They usually were able to tell me the nuts, but not always, and were never able to name all three. So, while they had a desire to play they were complete novices. Still, Maurizio said he would call his friends who heard I was a poker player and arrange a game.
Sure enough an hour later we have 8 players, chips, and a deck of cards. They want to play a sit-n-go for €10 a man. I decline, saying it would not be fair, but I was willing to run the game and deal for them. Some hands had guys calling off their remaining stack with king high. The best player was the fat man’s grandson, but they didn’t understand even the basics of bet sizing, bluffing, or hand reading. I think the first card was dealt at 3am and the game ended at 5am. I invited Maurizio and anyone who wanted to come to Florida to play poker with me then. Maurizio said he’s come to Florida this winter. We’ll see.
On the day of the tournament I watched the first 2 players. Michele explained the scoring again. Into the game I asked if both players were bad. He said yes, in fact one was a beginner. I thought I could beat both these guys. I asked if I could enter the tournament, but registration was closed. It took two days to complete, and the fat man walked away with the title. He beat his grandson who took second place.
As I began to know the bar crowd they asked me about poker and on one of my last nights in Torre Orsina asked if I could teach them. They watched the WSOP and WPT on television, knew many of the players names (one asked if I played with Johnny Chan) and knew the rules of Texas Hold’em. After the evening’s festivities I taught the bar owner, Maurizio, and Michele. At one point I’d dealt out a board and ask them to tell me what the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd nuts would be. They usually were able to tell me the nuts, but not always, and were never able to name all three. So, while they had a desire to play they were complete novices. Still, Maurizio said he would call his friends who heard I was a poker player and arrange a game.
Sure enough an hour later we have 8 players, chips, and a deck of cards. They want to play a sit-n-go for €10 a man. I decline, saying it would not be fair, but I was willing to run the game and deal for them. Some hands had guys calling off their remaining stack with king high. The best player was the fat man’s grandson, but they didn’t understand even the basics of bet sizing, bluffing, or hand reading. I think the first card was dealt at 3am and the game ended at 5am. I invited Maurizio and anyone who wanted to come to Florida to play poker with me then. Maurizio said he’s come to Florida this winter. We’ll see.