After breakfast yesterday we headed out of the apartment for our daily walk around town. Usually Cinzia leads the way, but she left it in my hands that day. There is a street parallel to St. Peter’s Square that is a tourist trap filled with restaurants. Tables line both sides of the streets and hawkers are positioned at all corners with menus in hand trying to entice tourists to dine with them. We passed them all and further down found a pizza place. Most pizzerias in Rome sell by the slice. Rectangular pans line the counters offering dozens of types of pizzas. They cut off as many inches as you indicate, reheat it in the oven if needed, then weigh the pizza before giving you your total. Prices can range from €12/kilo to over €20/kilo. This place was in the middle at €16/kilo.
I made my way across the Tiber and towards Piazza Navona. By this point Cinzia knew where I was headed – back to the pastry shop. She took the lead and got us there where I ordered a marron glacé tart and she got one with pears, walnuts, and pinoli. Both were delicious. After more walking we saw a gelateria with a sign saying that they had the best gelato in Rome. I gave them a try and had pomegranate sorbetto and the ricotta and basil gelato. Good, but nowhere near the best in Rome.
After more walking and touring a few churches, it was getting dark and time to head home. We rested a bit before heading back out for our dinner reservation at A' Ciaramira in Trestevere. This €34 GroupOn got us a selection of pasta courses and all-you-can-eat mixed fried seafood (plus wine and water). The pasta was great – we tried the baccalà stuffed rigatoni and spaghetti with a swordfish sauce. The fried fish was a light and crispy mix of calamari, shrimp, and fish. When I asked for lemon the waitress told me no, it would make the seafood soggy, so no lemon for me. All this would have run us €122 had we not had the GroupOn. Roma ain't cheap.
Once outside we went directly to a cannoli place where we had eaten a week ago. It was 9:50pm and as we approached their shuttered door started to close. We caught them just in time to grab 2 cannoli – one end topped with crushed pistachios and the other topped with a slice of candied orange rind. The crisp cinnamon shell and sweetened ricotta filling was yummy. We grabbed the bus home and were in our apartment by 11:30pm.
Today we slept late and went to the market to pick up fixings for lunch (crusty rolls, prosciutto, mozzarella di bufala, and tomatoes) and artichokes for dinner. Artichokes are expensive on restaurant menus. One Carciofi alla Romana can be €5. We’ve seen them for sale in the produce markets for €1 each, but we didn’t want to peel and clean them. We knew there was a guy in the market who did that for you. The recipe we copied the other day called for 8 artichokes. At the market there were cleaned artichokes in bags of 8 for only €6,90 (or you could buy them unpeeled for €0,90 each – go figure). As she was checking me out at her register she asked if I needed parsley and mint. Of course I did. Everyone made this identical recipe. She pulled out the correct quantity of herbs I would need and included them gratis with the artichokes. Cinzia’s chopping the herbs now and we’ll have them for dinner.
Today we slept late and went to the market to pick up fixings for lunch (crusty rolls, prosciutto, mozzarella di bufala, and tomatoes) and artichokes for dinner. Artichokes are expensive on restaurant menus. One Carciofi alla Romana can be €5. We’ve seen them for sale in the produce markets for €1 each, but we didn’t want to peel and clean them. We knew there was a guy in the market who did that for you. The recipe we copied the other day called for 8 artichokes. At the market there were cleaned artichokes in bags of 8 for only €6,90 (or you could buy them unpeeled for €0,90 each – go figure). As she was checking me out at her register she asked if I needed parsley and mint. Of course I did. Everyone made this identical recipe. She pulled out the correct quantity of herbs I would need and included them gratis with the artichokes. Cinzia’s chopping the herbs now and we’ll have them for dinner.
It’s the end of our second week in Rome, so I’ve posted about 100 pictures in our Photo Gallery. Have a look when you get time.
We’re also making plans to return to Torre Orsina. We’ll head that way on Saturday the 26th and return to Rome on Monday (there’s a 24-hour train strike scheduled for Saturday at 9pm). Lots to cram in to our final two weeks in Italy!
We’re also making plans to return to Torre Orsina. We’ll head that way on Saturday the 26th and return to Rome on Monday (there’s a 24-hour train strike scheduled for Saturday at 9pm). Lots to cram in to our final two weeks in Italy!